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Alps, Einsiedeln Abbey & Cheese, CH(瑞士阿爾卑斯、修道院與奶酪)
送交者: 天邊的紅霞 2020年07月04日08:14:40 於 [五 味 齋] 發送悄悄話

2017-08-24

Alps-Einsiedeln Abbey-Cheeses0001.JPG

【Aiden in English】

        The final day of the vacation is always a sad one. But a well-said phrase from our program director of the Viking Kvasir states otherwise. "Don't feel so sad that the journey is over, be happy it happened." I'm certainly happy this Rhine Getaway took place, and although I missed out on many opportunities to drink alcohol, I have no regrets.

        However, the final day also is the busiest day on our agenda. Starting at nine in the morning, mom and I would embark on a tour around the surrounding terrain, highlights of Lucerne, and its lake. Of course, we were going along with a much larger group, containing passengers from our cruise as well as another. I was actually looking forward to this tour since it pretty much summed up Europe.

        Starting from the Swiss Alps, we went up a small hill, Mt. Pilatus, of 2,132 meters/7,000 feet by means of a cogwheel on a mild slope of forty-eight degrees. The mountain, named after Jesus Pontius Pilate, was his burial place. A lot of superstition hung around the caves within the mountain, but I was not here for history. The mountain probably provided the best and easiest accessibility of any peaks in the region. Although the weather conditions were spectacular up the top of Mt. Pilatus, the time of year wasn't quite ideal. Global warming has reduced the amount of snowfall, even in mountainous areas. Essentially, if you're not above sea level by 4,000 meters/12,000 feet, there won't be any snow during the summer months. On the bright side, the warm weather and clear skies allowed for unbelievable views of Jungfrau (4,158 m/ 13,642 feet) and Finsteraarhorn (4,274 m/14,022 feet). Because only given an hour, we had to rush around the peaks, scouring for good pictures, and eventually briskly pacing back to the meeting point. 

        We took a quick break from the morning hiking with an hour's drive from Lucerne to Einsiedeln, Canton of Schwyz (cantons represent counties). There, a swift forty-five minute stop was set, allowing for a glimpse at the Einsiedeln Abbey established in the 10th century. The town itself was smallish, so I wasn't expecting much of the abbey. However, I was stunned to see a diamond within the coals. A high ceiling of Rococo patterns with two double-cross Baroque bell towers drew my attention immediately upwards, then to the sides where tens of hundreds of paintings and 3-D frescoes protruding from walls. Even though I've seen tons of art on this trip, these large canvases still amazed me. Right smack dab in the middle, surrounded by the Chapel of Grace, was the Black Madonna. This centerpiece of pilgrimage blackened by centuries of dust and the soot of candles and incense, as the name states, was hidden in WWII from the Germans to avoid its destruction. It was recently put back, restoring the glory to the abbey. 

        The afternoon summed up the other half of Switzerland, the food. That essentially covered cheese and dairy products, from chocolate to yogurt to chocolate-flavored yogurt. Kinderdijk, Netherlands has already shown us a family-run farm, making its own cheeses. Today we happened to be on a Swiss farm to produce hay milk in addition to the regular one, but the cheese making was left to the local Milk Manufacture. On a much shorter description of the milking process, we were wandering about a dairy stall to meet 30 cows and a breeding bull with their calves. Because I've heard the story before, I focused on the cows this time around. You know, when you stare them in the eyes, they stare right back, and their gaze follows you around until they think there is another more interesting person to stare at. And when you pet them, either they accept your touch, shake their heads and deny it, or try to lick your arm. The latter didn't occur once, but twice. 

        Dinner was served at a cheese maker facility, Milk Manufacture and it was a fondue as one would expect. After walking through another different process of cheese making, this was the one that utilized many more machines and less manual labor. Its cheese wasn't produced just one kind. From Brie, Buffalo Cheese, to Mozzarella, all types of cheeses were sold directly after production. However, I'm not quite used to the strong cheese smell and gagged a bit when entering the storage room. Therefore, during the dinner fondue, I didn't eat as much as I thought. Besides, someone put a lot of Kirsch into the fondue, and I haven't grown a liking for alcohol just yet.

        As time flew by, it captured the final stop in this Rhine expedition, and most likely for this year. Internationally, I think it has been more than enough for the summer break as the new academic year of 2017-2018 is around the corner and my high school era will begin in 4 days. Since my 8th grade was over in early June, I've gone down the Danube, immediately transitioning to raft the Rhine. Rivers aside, the culture and taste (minus the alcohol) was something out of this world. Europe continues to stun and surpass Aiden's expectations. But after this trip, I'm really not sure where to go next. It's all a surprise from here on.

【紅霞譯文】

        度假最後一天總是令人百感交集,但“維京·知識之神”號遊輪策劃部主任說得好,“不必為即將結束的旅行難過,而應為出遊帶來的收穫高興”,萊茵之旅的確讓我欣喜若狂,其間儘管錯失了不少喝酒良機,可我一點也不後悔。

        然而,最後一天往往是旅途中最為忙碌的一天。從早上九點開始,我和媽媽便踏上環遊盧塞恩周邊山川湖泊之路,當然這回我們要和維京其它遊輪的乘客會師組成觀光大軍,對之我早有期待,畢竟它將給歐洲之行畫上句號。

        放眼瑞士阿爾卑斯山脈,我們先從2,132米/7,000英尺的小山包皮拉圖斯峰入手,齒輪火車沿着斜坡剛好達到48o的山路爬行,該山名取自曾經設法免受懲罰耶穌的猶太總督龐提烏斯·彼拉多,他死後葬於此地,難怪洞穴深處流傳着各種迷信說道,但我不是為探尋歷史而來。這一帶山連着山,很容易從一座山頭翻越另一座山頭,儘管皮拉圖斯峰天氣好得難以置信,但每年這個時候季節並非是最理想的,全球變暖早已減少降雪量,深山老林地區也不例外,從本質上說,只要海拔低於4,000公尺/12,000英尺,夏季休想看到雪花。從好的方面來說,風和日麗有助於辨認數一數二的處女峰(4,158米/13,642英尺)及芬斯特拉峰(4,274米/14,022英尺),因為只給出一個鐘頭自由活動時間,我們必須加快速度,捕捉各個山峰奇景異貌,直至最後心滿意足返回集合地點。

        在結束上午登山活動後,我們稍作休息,隨即從盧塞恩驅車一小時抵達施維茨縣艾因西德倫鎮。藉助45分鐘短暫逗留之際,我們粗略參觀了當地十世紀修建的修道院。小鎮地域不大,我實在沒法想象修道院規模如何。然而一旦置身其中,我立刻被華美的裝飾所吸引,抬頭仰望洛可可式建築,天花板高高在上,兩座巴洛克式鐘樓各自帶有一個雙十字架,教堂對側數以百計的平面繪畫和三維立體雕塑從牆壁上競相而出。本次旅遊所到之處我見過的藝術作品可以說數不勝數,但艾因西德倫修道院這些巨幅壁畫依然叫我驚嘆不已。主堂中央恩典小教堂里坐落着黑聖母馬利亞,這尊朝聖重要雕像歷經幾百年來灰塵洗禮煙熏炭烤已變成名副其實的黑色。二戰期間瑞士人為免遭德國佬破壞而把它藏了起來,直到最近才物歸原位重展修道院榮耀。

        時至下午我們沒忘體驗瑞士另類生活──飲食,從巧克力到酸奶再到巧克力風味的酸奶,歸根結底離不開奶酪及奶製品。荷蘭孩童堤防家庭經營的農場已向我們展示過奶酪製作工藝,今天碰巧又來到瑞士一家農場,它不光生產常規牛奶,而且還生產乾草牛奶,其奶酪製作則完全由當地牛奶工廠完成。待聽過農場簡介,我們來到牛棚與卅頭奶牛、一頭種牛及其小牛們相見。因為之前對類似情況有所了解,所以這回我把注意力全部放到奶牛身上。你知道,當你盯着奶牛不放,它們也會注視你的一舉一動,直到發現其他人值得關注為止;當你撫摸奶牛,它們要麼順從表示同意,要麼擺頭表示反對,要麼試圖舔你的胳膊,後面情形並非偶發事件,竟然一連出現過兩回。

        晚宴設在當地牛奶廠,正是人們所期待的瑞士火鍋大餐。這家奶酪生產更多採用機械化工藝而非手工製造,並且不只打造一種產品,從布利乾酪、水牛奶酪到意大利乾酪,所有新出爐的奶酪產品全部直銷,不過我還不太習慣氣味重的奶酪,走進儲藏室有點反胃打嗝,因此到了晚餐開吃火鍋的時候,反倒沒有想象得那麼起勁。另外,有人在火鍋里放了不少櫻桃酒,而我尚未到喜歡喝酒的地步。

        隨着時間推移,這趟萊茵之旅到此落下帷幕,而且極有可能將持續到本年度結束,我覺得這個暑假出國旅遊的時間足夠多了,再過四天,2017—2018新學年我的高中生涯將要開始。自打六月伊始初三結業以來,我先遊玩了多瑙河,接着又漂流萊茵河,兩河流域文化與飲食(除酒而外)是當今世界不可或缺的東西,歐洲繼續不負兒歌重望,但打道回府後,我真不確定下一個目的地,從現在起就讓它是個謎唄。

Today in History(歷史上的今天):

2017: Lucerne—Mt Pilatus the Dragon Mt, CH(瑞士盧塞恩—皮拉圖斯龍山)

2017: Lucerne—Heart of the Country, Swiss(瑞士盧塞恩─大地原點)

2017: Lucerne—Salvation through Christ, CHE(瑞士盧塞恩─救贖之城)

2015: Great Wall, Beijing(北京萬里長城)

2014: Reunion w/ Old Friends(老友重逢)












Crosslinks(相關博文):

Switzerland(出遊瑞士)

Europe(歐洲掠影)



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