涼風吹拂着臉頰，我們乘擺渡從瀑布一側來到阿根廷伊瓜蘇國家公園中央聖馬丁島沙灘，周圍綠木蔥鬱枝葉繁茂，堪稱近距離全方位觀察瀑布的最佳去處。小島面積不大，但山路迴轉，石梯盤旋，若想扼守““魔鬼喉”天塹峽谷，狂攬三千尺飛流直下，非得經歷一番艱苦跋涉。好不容易爬到頂端，我兩腿軟作一團，幾乎不聽使喚。不過有福之人不用愁，眼前出現幾個座位，我蹣跚而去，“坐看銀河落九天”。等體力恢復之後，我繼續從一個景點移至下一個景點，前面激流直瀉，後邊浪花飛濺，我出落得像只落湯雞。 

      The cool wind blew in my face as a ferryboat zipped along the waters docking on the beach of San Martin Island. San Martin was a small lush island right in the center of Iguazu National Park in Argentina, which offered the closest views of the falls. The island was rough and strenuous to climb. The stairs never seemed to end! By the time mom and I arrived at the top, I felt as if my legs were made of jelly and crawling would be the next best option. Luckily, I spotted some seats, managed to hobble to them and propped myself comfortably on. When I gained control of my legs at last, I walked on and soon found myself staring at the enormous falls. The waterfalls came in torrents and splashed against the granite rocks. What it came next, however, completely soaked me like a drowned rat.

      After we took the ferry back to the mainland, I caught a glimpse of another jet boat going into and under two medium sizes of the falls. It looked insane, but exciting. I pulled my mom and told her that I wanted to go. When she finally agreed, I hopped with glee. But I was disappointed that she would rather stay dry. She decided to leave me alone and I had to adventure on my own. She might chicken out as I thought.

      從馬丁島返回陸面，我發現乘坐橡皮艇去衝擊兩個不大不小的瀑布，既刺激又好玩，我趕緊要求媽媽一起嘗試。媽媽倒不反對“沖瀑”娛樂，但她並不想打濕自己的衣服，因此我只好耍單，一個人衝鋒陷陣。其實，我猜媽媽恐怕因為膽怯而不敢體驗這種挑戰。

      The captain gave me an empty bag for shoes and a life vest. I was almost gagged by my vest and had to loosen it a lot. Before I knew it, I was blasting away from the shore. The first fall wasn't that bad and my boat didn't come under since this fall was too large. But I really got soaked on the next one. The boat plunged in the waterfalls at top speed and stayed underneath for a while. Once it passed though the falls, I felt like being poked with cold bars of ice. I wished I could do it again. Apparently the captain had his plans and steered the boat back to the dock. At this moment, I appreciated the heat for drying up my cloths once more time!

      船長給了我一個空包用來存鞋，包里裝的救生衣穿在身上，憋得喘不過氣來，我只好鬆了一大節帶子。不一會兒，橡皮艇猶如離弦弓箭，帶我疾馳而去。第一個瀑布沒把我怎麼樣，但第二個的確叫我嘗到了厲害。橡皮艇以全速衝進瀑布，先在裡面停留片刻，然後再跑一個來回，只覺身上仿佛被冰柱狠狠地戳來戳去。真想多玩幾趟，但船長另有安排，轉舵返回碼頭。上岸後，我頭一次喜歡這麼炎熱的天氣，至少可以烘乾身上打濕的衣服。

      直到下午三點鐘，我們才乘出租從伊瓜蘇國家公園阿根廷一側，穿過邊境進入巴西另一側。

      Unlike Argentina, Brazil not only asked for the reciprocal fee of $160 from each tourist, but also required for visas before entering the country. Our taxi driver handed in our passports with the stamped permission to the customs while we were waiting in the car. In less than 40 minutes, we hit on the road to a new destination- Hotel das Cataratas (Hotel of Cataracts) located in another part of Iguazu National Park. In Brazilian side, we would like to stay one more night in a Portuguese-style up front to the falls and to indulge ourselves in such serene world that Mother Nature thrived in. It was the very Brazilian spot that provided a better panoramic view of the Iguazu falls over great close-up details in Argentina. Although a little over 20% of the falls left out to Brazil, UNESCO recognized it as a heritage site in 1986.

      阿根廷重視實際，只要每位來訪的美國公民事先在網上交付$160美元買路費，10年內隨你任何時候進出國門。巴西則講究原則，錢當然一分不能少，簽證手續更要行前至少一個星期提早辦理。我們坐在車裡按兵不動，將護照簽證一併交給司機，由他全權負責海關過境檢查。大約不出40分鐘，我們重新上路，頭也不回地奔赴位於巴西伊瓜蘇國家公園內的“大瀑布酒店”。我們打算多呆一天，好好體味造物主如何厚待這方土地。預定的房間面朝瀑布，頗具葡萄牙風格，即使足不出戶，我們照樣可以目睹窗外瀑布景致。儘管僅有超過20%的瀑布群散落巴西境內，但因其特殊的地理位置，將整個自然風光毫無客氣地化為己有。如果說阿根廷獨擁近水樓台之美，那麼巴西則盡展遠觀全景之秀，正所謂肥水灌溉兩家田！繼阿根廷伊瓜蘇國家公園之後塵，巴西伊瓜蘇國家公園於1986年被聯合國教科文組織《世界遺產名錄》晉封為自然遺產。

      We did not plan any exploration until after the park closed to the public at 5:00 pm. When the thick of tourists vanished, it became a perfect time for us to beat the queue without any congestion!

      抵達下榻之後，我們稍事休息，成心等到五點公園關閉、遊人散去之後，才不着急不着慌走近各個瀑布景點。

      Mom and I came out to explore the park along a only trail leading to the falls and followed it to the Devil's Throat. The spectacular scenery took our breath away. As I jogged along the footbridge, the mist densely showered me. The thunder ruptured my eardrums and made a pervasive rumble wherever I went. The closer I came to the falls, the louder the sound became!

      媽媽和我漫步公園景區唯一一條小路，對面的美景交相輝映，令人嘆為觀止。我站在通向“魔鬼喉”的天橋上，層層霧氣繚繞，串串水珠澆身，宛如淋浴一場。咆哮的水聲震耳欲聾，我無論走到哪裡，它就跟到哪裡，而且越接近瀑布，噪聲也就越大。

      As I turned to leave, I heard another sound of raindrops hitting the ground. So I ran full speed ahead without stopping to rest. Then mom spotted an elevator lookout as a shelter. We watched the rainfall for a little while and felt as if the rain would never stop as the Iguazu Falls. We decided to run for the hotel. So with a blink of an eye, we were waddling in the rain as swiftly as fish in Iguazu River. Halfway there, a terrible smell came abruptly from the trees. It was three times worse than an angry skunk. Luckily I didn't just have a feast. Otherwise my stomach would turn inside out. The last thing I did before heading back to the hotel was that I promised myself to bring an oxygen mask next time.

      遊覽過後正要轉身離去，我聽到雨點落地發出的另一種響聲。於是，我不由分說拔腿就跑。恰在這時，媽媽發現電梯頂層有一了望台可用來避雨，既來之則安之，我們索性靜候其間，雨中觀瀑。雨水繼續嘩啦啦地下個沒完，如同眼前飛流的瀑布，看樣子一時半會停不下來，何不一鼓作氣跑回酒店？眨眼間，我們像伊瓜蘇河裡活蹦亂跳的小魚，在雨中飛速狂奔。半路上，忽然樹那邊傳來一股怪味，比黃鼠狼發脾氣時釋放的臭屁還要難聞出三倍。幸好我尚未酒肉穿腸過，否則非得噁心地全吐出來不可。我發誓，今後出門一定要備好氧氣口罩。

(二O一三年一月七日)