凉风吹拂着脸颊，我们乘摆渡从瀑布一侧来到阿根廷伊瓜苏国家公园中央圣马丁岛沙滩，周围绿木葱郁枝叶繁茂，堪称近距离全方位观察瀑布的最佳去处。小岛面积不大，但山路回转，石梯盘旋，若想扼守““魔鬼喉”天堑峡谷，狂揽三千尺飞流直下，非得经历一番艰苦跋涉。好不容易爬到顶端，我两腿软作一团，几乎不听使唤。不过有福之人不用愁，眼前出现几个座位，我蹒跚而去，“坐看银河落九天”。等体力恢复之后，我继续从一个景点移至下一个景点，前面激流直泻，后边浪花飞溅，我出落得像只落汤鸡。 

      The cool wind blew in my face as a ferryboat zipped along the waters docking on the beach of San Martin Island. San Martin was a small lush island right in the center of Iguazu National Park in Argentina, which offered the closest views of the falls. The island was rough and strenuous to climb. The stairs never seemed to end! By the time mom and I arrived at the top, I felt as if my legs were made of jelly and crawling would be the next best option. Luckily, I spotted some seats, managed to hobble to them and propped myself comfortably on. When I gained control of my legs at last, I walked on and soon found myself staring at the enormous falls. The waterfalls came in torrents and splashed against the granite rocks. What it came next, however, completely soaked me like a drowned rat.

      After we took the ferry back to the mainland, I caught a glimpse of another jet boat going into and under two medium sizes of the falls. It looked insane, but exciting. I pulled my mom and told her that I wanted to go. When she finally agreed, I hopped with glee. But I was disappointed that she would rather stay dry. She decided to leave me alone and I had to adventure on my own. She might chicken out as I thought.

      从马丁岛返回陆面，我发现乘坐橡皮艇去冲击两个不大不小的瀑布，既刺激又好玩，我赶紧要求妈妈一起尝试。妈妈倒不反对“冲瀑”娱乐，但她并不想打湿自己的衣服，因此我只好耍单，一个人冲锋陷阵。其实，我猜妈妈恐怕因为胆怯而不敢体验这种挑战。

      The captain gave me an empty bag for shoes and a life vest. I was almost gagged by my vest and had to loosen it a lot. Before I knew it, I was blasting away from the shore. The first fall wasn't that bad and my boat didn't come under since this fall was too large. But I really got soaked on the next one. The boat plunged in the waterfalls at top speed and stayed underneath for a while. Once it passed though the falls, I felt like being poked with cold bars of ice. I wished I could do it again. Apparently the captain had his plans and steered the boat back to the dock. At this moment, I appreciated the heat for drying up my cloths once more time!

      船长给了我一个空包用来存鞋，包里装的救生衣穿在身上，憋得喘不过气来，我只好松了一大节带子。不一会儿，橡皮艇犹如离弦弓箭，带我疾驰而去。第一个瀑布没把我怎么样，但第二个的确叫我尝到了厉害。橡皮艇以全速冲进瀑布，先在里面停留片刻，然后再跑一个来回，只觉身上仿佛被冰柱狠狠地戳来戳去。真想多玩几趟，但船长另有安排，转舵返回码头。上岸后，我头一次喜欢这么炎热的天气，至少可以烘干身上打湿的衣服。

      直到下午三点钟，我们才乘出租从伊瓜苏国家公园阿根廷一侧，穿过边境进入巴西另一侧。

      Unlike Argentina, Brazil not only asked for the reciprocal fee of $160 from each tourist, but also required for visas before entering the country. Our taxi driver handed in our passports with the stamped permission to the customs while we were waiting in the car. In less than 40 minutes, we hit on the road to a new destination- Hotel das Cataratas (Hotel of Cataracts) located in another part of Iguazu National Park. In Brazilian side, we would like to stay one more night in a Portuguese-style up front to the falls and to indulge ourselves in such serene world that Mother Nature thrived in. It was the very Brazilian spot that provided a better panoramic view of the Iguazu falls over great close-up details in Argentina. Although a little over 20% of the falls left out to Brazil, UNESCO recognized it as a heritage site in 1986.

      阿根廷重视实际，只要每位来访的美国公民事先在网上交付$160美元买路费，10年内随你任何时候进出国门。巴西则讲究原则，钱当然一分不能少，签证手续更要行前至少一个星期提早办理。我们坐在车里按兵不动，将护照签证一并交给司机，由他全权负责海关过境检查。大约不出40分钟，我们重新上路，头也不回地奔赴位于巴西伊瓜苏国家公园内的“大瀑布酒店”。我们打算多呆一天，好好体味造物主如何厚待这方土地。预定的房间面朝瀑布，颇具葡萄牙风格，即使足不出户，我们照样可以目睹窗外瀑布景致。尽管仅有超过20%的瀑布群散落巴西境内，但因其特殊的地理位置，将整个自然风光毫无客气地化为己有。如果说阿根廷独拥近水楼台之美，那么巴西则尽展远观全景之秀，正所谓肥水灌溉两家田！继阿根廷伊瓜苏国家公园之后尘，巴西伊瓜苏国家公园于1986年被联合国教科文组织《世界遗产名录》晋封为自然遗产。

      We did not plan any exploration until after the park closed to the public at 5:00 pm. When the thick of tourists vanished, it became a perfect time for us to beat the queue without any congestion!

      抵达下榻之后，我们稍事休息，成心等到五点公园关闭、游人散去之后，才不着急不着慌走近各个瀑布景点。

      Mom and I came out to explore the park along a only trail leading to the falls and followed it to the Devil's Throat. The spectacular scenery took our breath away. As I jogged along the footbridge, the mist densely showered me. The thunder ruptured my eardrums and made a pervasive rumble wherever I went. The closer I came to the falls, the louder the sound became!

      妈妈和我漫步公园景区唯一一条小路，对面的美景交相辉映，令人叹为观止。我站在通向“魔鬼喉”的天桥上，层层雾气缭绕，串串水珠浇身，宛如淋浴一场。咆哮的水声震耳欲聋，我无论走到哪里，它就跟到哪里，而且越接近瀑布，噪声也就越大。

      As I turned to leave, I heard another sound of raindrops hitting the ground. So I ran full speed ahead without stopping to rest. Then mom spotted an elevator lookout as a shelter. We watched the rainfall for a little while and felt as if the rain would never stop as the Iguazu Falls. We decided to run for the hotel. So with a blink of an eye, we were waddling in the rain as swiftly as fish in Iguazu River. Halfway there, a terrible smell came abruptly from the trees. It was three times worse than an angry skunk. Luckily I didn't just have a feast. Otherwise my stomach would turn inside out. The last thing I did before heading back to the hotel was that I promised myself to bring an oxygen mask next time.

      游览过后正要转身离去，我听到雨点落地发出的另一种响声。于是，我不由分说拔腿就跑。恰在这时，妈妈发现电梯顶层有一了望台可用来避雨，既来之则安之，我们索性静候其间，雨中观瀑。雨水继续哗啦啦地下个没完，如同眼前飞流的瀑布，看样子一时半会停不下来，何不一鼓作气跑回酒店？眨眼间，我们像伊瓜苏河里活蹦乱跳的小鱼，在雨中飞速狂奔。半路上，忽然树那边传来一股怪味，比黄鼠狼发脾气时释放的臭屁还要难闻出三倍。幸好我尚未酒肉穿肠过，否则非得恶心地全吐出来不可。我发誓，今后出门一定要备好氧气口罩。

(二O一三年一月七日)