旧金山纪实十四 台湾牛肉面 有图有菜谱

杭州阿立

2020年12月19日

书接上集《母子撞衫父子醉酒婆媳相似 自烤牛肉爽》：

https://web.6parkbbs.com/index.php?app=forum&act=view&tid=1159471

家中烤牛肉小小阿立当仁不让的大厨手艺。若说到真正厨艺认真，中西美食兼修的小厨娘，那还是小小阿立嫂了。

中式美食，红烧肉她是跟阿立嫂学的，如今也是很拿手了。跟妈妈又学了不少台湾菜肴（也是中式美食）。

除了掌厨，她还写博客，美食评论、菜谱介绍，不一而足。当然都是英文的，中文她能说一些，书写还是不行（小小阿立也差不多）。

这天她在家里做了台湾牛肉面，也是蛮费功夫的。

小小阿立嫂的台湾牛肉面（2020年12月4日）：

上面是阿立拍的照片。小小阿立嫂当时也拍了些照片。后来她在自己的英文博客介绍了台湾牛肉面《Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup (牛肉麵)》。

文章是英文的，除了个别中文词。阿立大致翻译成中文：

如果有一款菜能把我瞬间带回台湾，那就是牛肉面。初中时去台湾，在台中的一家毫不起眼的小餐馆里吃到最美味的牛肉面，那记忆虽已模糊、却又难忘。说来也怪，之后又去台湾多次，却未必每次都吃牛肉面（台湾美食实在太多了）。但那温馨、热乎乎的牛肉面，加之无限量的青葱、香菜、酸菜浇头，总让我充满对乡土的怀念。

几年前，妈妈教我如何做卤肉（braised beef），用来做牛肉烧饼。自己做的卤肉比在餐馆吃到的更嫩、更鲜美。从那以后，每当气候转凉，我都会用妈妈的方法做牛肉面。

牛肉面的准备手续虽然麻烦些，但可以提前准备各项食材。等该美味宴客时，一切都几乎就绪。你可以轻松做好10几份或更多，如果食客多多。或者自家分几次享用。

对我来言，牛肉面是终极温心美食（comfort food），令我怀念新泽西的童年，和家庭旅游去台湾。希望这款食谱也能带给你家的味道（taste of home）。

Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup (牛肉麵)

小小阿立嫂

If there’s one dish that brings me back immediately to Taiwan, it’s beef noodle soup. I have a vague, yet distinct memory of eating the most savory, delicious beef noodle soup at a small, unimpressive-looking restaurant in Taichung (台中) when I was in middle school. Oddly enough, since then, I haven’t always had beef noodle soup on my trips back to Taiwan (there’s so much other good food), but the feeling of a comfortable, hot bowl of noodle soup with unlimited toppings of green onion, cilantro, and pickled mustard greens always fills me with longing for the motherland.

Several years ago, my mom taught me how she makes her braised beef (滷肉) (which always comes out more tender and flavorful than most I’ve had in restaurants) to make Chinese beef sandwiches (牛肉燒餅). Since then, I’ve used her recipe several times to make beef noodle soup, whenever it starts getting a bit colder outside. Though it takes awhile to make, there’s a lot you can prep beforehand so that when it’s dinner time, you have almost everything ready to go (plus: you can easily make 12 or more portions for a large party, or for several leftover meals). For me, beef noodle soup is the ultimate comfort food, reminding me of my childhood in New Jersey and family trips to Taiwan. I hope this recipe gives you that same taste of home.

Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup (牛肉麵) Recipe

Prep Time: 35 minutes（准备需时35分）

Cook Time: 2 hours 45 minutes (2 hours inactive; 45 minutes active), as well as time overnight to let the meat sit, and several hours to allow the meat to become firm in the fridge (best done as a two-day process)

烧煮时间2小时45分（2小时无需看管）；烧好的肉要放置一晚，以及放冰箱几小时（最好是两天时间，急不得）。

Ingredients (for 12+ servings):食材（12份的量）

For the beef:

• 5 lb boneless beef shank (or beef round heel muscle; choose pieces that are cylindrical in shape) 5磅牛腱

• 1 bag stew spice (滷 包) (Can also be substituted with Chinese five spice powder, star anise, and Sichuan red peppercorns)

• 1 cup dark soy sauce

• 2-inch piece of ginger, cut into slices (optional, but recommended)

• 8 whole cloves of garlic, peeled (optional, but recommended)

• 1 tsp salt

For the noodle soup:

• 3 lb baby bok choy (or regular bok choy) 3磅小白菜

• 4 green onions 4 根青葱

• 1/2 bunch cilantro 半把香菜

• 1 tbsp vegetable oil

• 1 lb pickled mustard greens (酸菜)

• 5 dried red peppers (optional, but recommended)

• 2 tsp soy sauce

• 2 tsp sugar

• 12 servings (~4 lb) fresh Shanghai-style white noodles (or alternatively 2 lb dried noodles)

Recipe:

The Day Before: Braise the Beef（炖牛肉）

1. Blanch the beef. Boil 1 large pot of water, put all of the beef in, and bring the pot to a boil again. Turn off the heat. Pour the beef into a strainer, letting all of the boiled water pour down the sink. Use cold tap water to briefly rinse the meat.大锅水煮开，放入所有的牛肉。待水煮开，关火。滤水，自来水冲洗牛肉。

2. Put the beef back into the large pot. Add the stew spice bag, dark soy sauce, ginger, garlic, and salt to the pot. Then, add enough water to cover the beef.牛肉再入锅，放入卤包，老抽酱油，生姜，大蒜，盐。加足够的水，淹没牛肉。

3. Bring the pot to a boil. Then, turn the heat to medium low and allow the pot to simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, checking on the pot every 30 minutes, and adding more water to cover the meat if necessary. The meat is done when you are able to poke through the beef with a chopstick. Turn off the heat.煮开，然后炉温调到‘中低’（medium low），炖一个半到2小时。每30分钟看一下，需要的话加水（保证水淹没牛肉）。当牛肉可以用筷子插入时，就烧好了。

4. Let the meat sit in the mixture in the pot overnight to let the juices fully marinate the meat. By the next morning, the meat will have much more flavor and a nice, darker color.让牛肉继续在锅中的调料里过夜，彻底入味。

The Day Of: Prep Ingredients准备食材

These items can be done anytime during the day, hours before when you want to eat.这些白天任何时候都可做，在开饭前几小时都可以。

1. The next day, take the beef out from the pot and put it into Ziploc bags. Place the bags in the fridge for a couple hours so that the beef becomes firm and easy to slice. Leave the broth in the pot for later. When the beef is firm enough to slice a few hours later, cut the beef into thin slices.早上将牛肉分装入塑料袋（Ziploc bags），放到冰箱几个小时。待牛肉足够硬实，取出、切片。

2. Prep the toppings. Drain the pickled mustard greens and soak them in water for at least 10 minutes (you can do step 3 during this time). This helps reduce any sharp, acidic taste. Dice the pickled mustard greens after soaking.准备浇头。酸菜滤去汁水，放入水中浸泡10分钟（同时可以做第3步的准备工作）。之后将酸菜切成小块。

3. Wash the cilantro and roughly chop. Wash the green onion, removing any wilted outer parts, and slice thinly. Thoroughly wash the bok choy and cut off the stems. If using regular size bok choy (not baby-sized), slice each leaf in half vertically.清洗香菜，粗粗的切一下。洗、清理青葱，切细。清洗小白菜，去根部。如果没有小白菜，普通白菜每片菜叶竖切成两片。

4. Heat 1 tbsp vegetable oil in a pan on medium high heat. Sauté the pickled mustard greens, around 10-15 minutes. Break the dried red peppers in half and add to the pan. Add the soy sauce and sugar, adding more to taste if necessary. Stir for a few minutes and take off the pan.用1汤匙菜油，炉温中等，小炒酸菜大约10到15分钟。干红辣椒切半，放入炒锅中。加酱油、糖，按口味可加量。炒几分钟，出锅。

The Day Of: Cooking烹调

Start this process about 30-40 minutes before you want to eat! Only cook the amount that you want to eat today.开饭前大约30到40分钟开始。只做今天要吃的分量。

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the bok choy and cook about 5 minutes until no longer bitter, but still crisp (don’t overcook or wait for the water to boil again). Strain the pot, taking the bok choy out.大锅水煮开。加小白菜，大约5分钟，直到无苦味但还脆（不要煮过头，或者等水开）。滤水，取出小白菜。

2. Fill the large pot with water and bring to a boil again. Cook the noodles according to the package instructions (usually under 5 minutes for fresh noodles and about 10-15 minutes for dried noodles). Strain and run with cold water to keep the noodles from sticking together.大锅装水，再煮开。按面条的包装说明煮面条（通常湿面煮5分钟，干面条煮10到15分钟）。滤水，用冷水冲面以防面条粘连。

3. Pour some broth on the sliced beef and microwave it for 1 minute.切片的卤肉加些之前的汤料，微波炉一分钟。

4. Plate! Portion out noodles into each bowl. Then, place the beef, bok choy, and pickled mustard greens on top. Pour the broth into the bowl, and top with cilantro and green onion. Enjoy!装盘。面条分碗装。卤肉、小白菜、酸菜青葱等浇头加到面条上。再浇些汤料。雅蜜！

Braising the Beef

Prepping the Ingredients

Serving