不得了了，上周末的华尔街时报一个老外厨师整版展示如何做小笼包。俺刚要嗤之以鼻，定睛一看，原来是邓福霞（Fuschia Dunlop)写的。马上坐稳，这俺可得好好看看。

话说这个福霞小妹儿，原籍大不列颠，但是是个辣妹子，自幼钟情于俺中华饮食文化。特地跑到了咱祖国的四川省和湖南省专门出辣妹子的地方学艺。非常有钻劲儿，写了不少书。俺曾经买过她的“Land of Plenty", 不过至今一道菜也没试过。最多也就是有空拿出来看看，溜溜口水，就当吃过了。吼吼。

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuchsia_Dunlop

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fuchsia-Dunlop/e/B001IGLRVG/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_1/279-4619748-2599248

这次华尔报为了推广她的新书《粒粒大米 － 简易中华家庭料理》（"Every Grain of Rice: Simple Chinese Home Cooking"），特地整版登了她的小笼包钻研成果。太令人感动了。辣妹子特地去了上海的富春小笼，南翔小笼和台湾的鼎泰丰做调研，还钻研了大量的食谱。俺又被感动了。不过辣妹子写得也忒详细了，俺也忒没时间翻译了。大家有兴趣可以自己看看。其实也不难，相信五彩姐不出正月就能做出来。俺等着上菜了哈。

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424127887324445904578283763081361802.html?KEYWORDS=xiao+long+bao

P.S.：辣妹子的 Chinkiang Vinegar，俺想来想去，应该就是镇江香醋。这发音也忒邪乎了点儿。

Shanghai Soup Dumplings

Active Time: 1¼ hours Total Time: 1 day Makes: 25-30 dumplings

For the jellied stock:

1 pound pork ribs

1 chicken carcass

2 ounces ginger

3 scallions, white parts only

2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine

1 pound pig skin

1/8 teaspoon white pepper, plus more, to taste

Salt, to taste

For the filling:

1 ounce ginger

2 scallions

½ pound ground pork

1 tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

2 teaspoons white sugar

¾ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon white pepper

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

For the wrappers:

1½ cups plus 2 tablespoons Chinese dumpling flour or all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting

For steaming:

1 large head Napa cabbage

Vegetable oil for brushing

For the dipping sauce:

¼ ounce ginger, peeled and sliced into fine slivers

Chinkiang vinegar

Light soy sauce

What To Do

1. A day in advance, make jellied stock: Place pork ribs and chicken carcass in a large pot, cover with water and bring to a boil. Boil 1-2 minutes, then drain. Rinse well. Cover with 10½ cups water and return to a boil. Use side of a cleaver to smash a 1½-ounce piece of ginger and 2 scallions to loosen fibers, then add them to pot along with 1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine. Lower heat and simmer gently 2 hours. Remove pot from heat and strain stock. Discard chicken carcass and reserve ribs for another use.

2. Place pig skin in a pot, cover with water and bring to a boil. Boil 2 minutes, then drain. When skin is cool enough to handle, lay it on a cutting board with fat facing up and use a sharp knife to cut away and discard as much fat as possible, along with any fragments of meat.

3. Rinse pot. Return skin to pot, cover with 6 1/3 cups stock and bring to a boil. Smash remaining ginger and scallion with cleaver and add to pot, along with remaining Shaoxing wine and white pepper. Cover pot halfway and simmer gently 1½ hours. Remove skin, ginger and scallion with slotted spoon. Discard ginger and scallion, and finely chop skin. Return skin to pot, return to boil and simmer 2 minutes. Season with white pepper and salt. Strain contents of pot and discard skin. Let cool. Keep in refrigerator overnight to set jelly.

4. Make filling: Smash ginger and scallions with side of cleaver. Cover with ½ cup cold water and use your hand to squeeze vegetables to release their fragrance into water. Strain, discarding vegetables and reserving water.

5. Place ground pork in a mixing bowl. Add Shaoxing wine, soy sauce, sugar, salt and white pepper, and mix well. Stirring paste in one direction, drizzle in ginger-scallion water. Continue to stir until paste has a gluey consistency. Stir in sesame oil.

6. Finely chop jellied pork stock, add to pork mixture and mix well, stirring in one direction. Refrigerate until needed.

7. Make dumpling wrappers: Place flour in a mixing bowl and make a well in center. Pour ½ cup cold water into well and incorporate into flour. Add more water if necessary to make a smooth and pliable but fairly stiff dough. Roll dough into a ball and let rest in a bowl covered with a wet cloth for ½ hour.

8. Lightly dust a work surface and a rolling pin with flour. Break off half dough and use your hands to make a long roll about ¾-inch thick. Break off cherry-size pieces of dough from roll. Dust hands with flour and use palm to flatten each piece of dough into a disc. Use rolling pin to roll dough into a thin 4-inch circle, rolling from edge to center and rotating so that center is slightly thicker.

9. Prepare steamer: Place cabbage leaves in base of steamer and brush leaves lightly with oil.

10. Wrap dumplings: Lay a dumpling skin across palm of one hand. Place 1½ tablespoons pork stuffing in center of dumpling skin and flatten stuffing slightly. Use your free hand to pinch pleats around outer rim of dumpling skin, turning as you go. Twist top of dumpling to seal. Place dumpling in prepared steamer. Repeat with remaining dumpling skins and filling.

11. Steam dumplings: Fill a wok halfway with water and bring to boil. Stack steamer layers, cover and place in wok. Steam over high heat 5 minutes.

12. To serve: Bring steamer to table along with slivered ginger and bottles of Chinkiang vinegar and soy sauce. Set a dipping dish, china spoon and chopsticks for each guest. Let guests mix their own dips of vinegar, soy sauce and ginger. To eat, use chopsticks to lift neck of dumpling, dip in sauce and place in china spoon. Pierce dumpling with a chopstick so stock flows out into spoon. Sip soup and bite into dumpling.

—Ms. Dunlop's latest book, "Every Grain of Rice: Simple Chinese Home Cooking," is out this week from W. W. Norton.